Thursday, July 21 (continued)
approaching worthington glacier
We have mostly downhill and tail wind on Richardson highway. After 54 kilometers (3:03) of riding we are in Tiebel River Lodge for lunch. Despite reluctant service, we enjoy our chili and lentil-orzo soup in sourdough bowls ($6.50).
worthington glacier
Twenty kilometers later we are at Alaska Rendezvous Lodge, knocking on the door that advertises being open all year around. The place does not look abandoned, but there's no answer, so we go on. We start a long climb to the Thompson Pass. In 15 kilometers we pass another desolate place, Tsaina River Lodge that is looking for new owners.
scenery from thompson pass
We (PIC) (PIC) reach the pass (elev. 2771'/845m) around 7pm., and have around us the most splendid scenery ever.
from thompson pass
wall
Finally, just before 10pm. we are in Valdez. Without thinking we get a room at Glacier Sound Inn for $100 (+taxes!) and hit the road again in hunt for dinner. Mike's Palace is the only place serving food this late and it is in verge of closing, too. Tomi has a Goldmine (salmon, halibut, shrimp and scallops) for $18.95, and Tei Halibut in white wine sauce for $15.95. A (small) pitcher of Oosik Amber costs $15.95. You can tell from the prices that Valdez is an ultimate tourist resort! Our server fails to read her own handwriting and charges us only $30 instead of $50. We tip her generously.
bridal veil falls
We have a couple of AA's in Club Valdez next door. For nine dollars we get beers and a singing bartender. On our way back to the motel, we visit bar at Pipeline Inn, which seems the most popular bar in town. Tomi orders a bottle of Midnight Sun Brewing Co's Kodiak Nut Brown Ale, which has gone bad and tastes like Lambic. In order to confirm the flavor flaw, he orders another bottle ... and it tastes the same. He drinks both of them.
Today we rode 154.8 kilometers in 8:50, the average speed was 17.5km/h --- this is close to being our second fastest day so far.
Friday, July 22
We stayed up late, we sleep late. A little after ten we have downed motel's lobby breakfast. We do some shopping, laundry (PIC) and head out for a hike.
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The hike ends before it starts, since now we run into a bear on a trail. He was there first, so we quietly retreat and return to town. We visit the Old Valdez exhibition. It is not as much fun as the hike in this warm and sunny day would have been, but it's educational.
trunks
tei
We get some beer from a liquor store (also one bottle of Kodiak Brown to check the taste) and watch TV until heading out for dinner. We also reserve our seats for tomorrow's sea kayaking trip. It costs $145 per person, including the guide, equipment and some snacks and hot drinks. We dine at Fu Kung; Tomi has their special for $19.95 (salmon, halibut with broccoli + soup) and Tei has the same as Thai version; sweet and spicy halibut and salmon for $15.95.
no camping!
We finish our evening with glasses of wine and the nice view over the harbor at The Alaska Bistro.
valdez harbor
Saturday, July 23
tomi
water taxi
After a 30-minute bumpy ride the taxi drops us at the entrance to Shoup Bay. We put the gear on, pack the kayaks, and off we paddle to the Shoup Glacier.
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The first thing we visit is Black-Legged Kittiwake rookery, a rock inhabited by approximately 20,000 gulls that exhibit amazing defensive behavior when approached by a predator, most commonly the Arctic Peregrine Falcon.
under the avalanche
tnt
On our way to the glacier we briefly visit an avalanche that has not yet melted (PIC). We learn that usually this area is covered by variety of flora because of the deposits brought and left behind by the avalanche. It is not the case this year.
shoup glacier
When closer to the glacier we hear loud rumbles when blocks of ice fall into the water. It is hard to estimate the distance, since the glacier is inconceivably large, but my guess is that we are a good half a mile away from it.
junk left behind by the receding glacier
Before getting back for the water taxi pickup, we take a short hike on the terrain exposed by the receding glacier. It's for sure that if humans had caused such a mess it would have been an environmental catastrophe, but soon to be extinct glaciers are excused for so much.
blue ice
It is raining in Valdez when we get back around nine in the evening. Again we have to hurry to find a place to eat. In the Bistro we encounter a surly "we are closed". We try Sea Moor Fish Restaurant that still accepts orders. We have Sockeye Salmon (charbroiled) special ($23.95) and Caesar salad with blackened halibut ($13.95). The portions are huge, and the halibut hot, spicy hot. The service is good and attentive, even if we feel like being in the way of their final cleaning.
Sunday, July 24
valdez ferry terminal
sea lion lie
sea lions play
Anyway, while we are talking his girlfriend comes by and we are introduced. She does not believe we are "from" Indiana (she's from Chicago). She is probably a freakiest thing I've ever seen alive. Her lips are so pumped up she can barely speak. Her nose looks like Michael Jackson's. She wears sunglasses the whole day even if it ends up being a miserably gray day. Her arms are slightly tanned, but her face is powdered dead pale. She wears jeans, a fur vest and a cowboy hat (which she does not take off either).
alaska on the rocks
I must have stared her so intensely and astounded, forgetting I don't have MY sunglasses on, that the guy hurries to excuse her being on her first real bicycle trip. No kidding!? I can definitely think of better use of my panniers than storing a Stetson and a fur vest.
We are finally leaving Valdez where we have spent the last three days. It certainly has felt like a vacation, but now we need some exercise. Besides, we still have many more kilometers to cover.