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We spend the lunar new year
2011 in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand.
Our hostess, Gade, picks us
up at the airport, and since it is already rather late, she drops
us off at an Italian restaurant, La Fontana, in her guesthouse's
neighborhood.
Feb 2, 2011
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We start with a house salad
(fruit salad with yogurt dressing and deep-fried mozzarella) and
house wine.
Feb 2, 2011
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Then we share a veggie pizza
called “gypsy”.
Feb 2, 2011
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We stay on the top floor of
Elliebum Cafe and Guesthouse, which is owned and run by a young
Thai woman, Gade.
Feb 3, 2011
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A view to the back of
Elliebum.
Feb 3, 2011
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Elephants is the running
theme in the guesthouse.
Feb 3, 2011
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Waiting for the breakfast in
the front yard.
Feb 3, 2011
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Before heading to the
temples we have coffee at Coffee Lovers, one of Chiang Mai's
numerous cosy little coffee shops. In general we find Thai coffee
really tasty.
Feb 3, 2011
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A dragon guarding Wiharn
Luang at Wat Phra Singh.
Feb 3, 2011
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Statue of Phra Buddha Singh,
which according to a legend, was brought here from India in
mid-14th century.
Feb 3, 2011
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Viharn Lai Kham at Wat Phra Singh.
Feb 3, 2011
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Details of Ubosot at Wat
Phra Singh.
Feb 3, 2011
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Wat Chedi Luang certainly is
much more impressive than Wat Phra Singh, just because of its
size.
Feb 3, 2011
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When finished in mid-15th
century it was 82 meters high, but a hundred years later the top
30 meters of the temple collapsed in an earthquake.
Feb 3, 2011
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Ellies on guard.
Feb 3, 2011
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Some renovation work is
going on in one of the entrances.
Feb 3, 2011
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Funky green benches for
visitors to rest and admire the magnificient Wat Chedi Luang.
Feb 3, 2011
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We return to Elliebum for
beers and quick showers, and head out for dinner before it gets
dark.
Our, and many others',
choice tonight is Jerusalem Falafel, a small middle-eastern place
recommended by Lonely Planet. It is packed when we arrive, but
soon a table is vacated for us.
Feb 3, 2011
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The place empties and fills
repeatedly, but the service works well all the time.
Feb 3, 2011
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We order a Meze platter for
two and a bottle of Chilean cabernet sauvignon.
Feb 3, 2011
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After the dinner we visit
the market, where Tomi “has to have” a sausage, which he does
not like at all.
On our way back to the
guesthouse we visit Writer's club winebar, which is run by a
former foreign correspondent. We enjoy the rest of the evening
with Thai Shiraz 2008 by Khao Yai Winery, Sawasdee, PB Valley.
Feb 3, 2011
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At 6am. we head out for a
run around the old town. The sun is not up yet, but we see the
first beams late in our 50-minute run.
Feb 4, 2011
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Today we participate in a
tour that takes us to two waterfalls, to a hill tribe village, a
Hmong market, the highest mountain in Thailand, and the chedis
built in honor of the royal family.
The first stop is at the
Namtok Vachirathan waterfall. According to our guide it is some 80
meters high, but for us it seems merely 40 to 50 meters.
Feb 4, 2011
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There is surprisingly lot of
water coming down given that it has been a dry season and the area
has not seen rain for a long time.
Feb 4, 2011
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A trail goes to the top of
the waterfall, but unfortunately we don't have enough time to
climb all the way.
Feb 4, 2011
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First this little cutie
looks like a worm, but then the little feet appear.
Feb 4, 2011
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We visit White Karen
hill-tribe village, and buy some coffee. They roast their own
Arabica varietal.
Feb 4, 2011
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Dog days are not over.
Feb 4, 2011
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A variety of hibiscus.
Feb 4, 2011
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The second waterfall we
visit is Sirithan Waterfall, about 40 meters high.
Feb 4, 2011
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If measured by
the amount water, this waterfall is no inferior to the former one.
Feb 4, 2011
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Actually, the
stair-like structure is quite nice.
Feb 4, 2011
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We visit Hmong market---
Hmongs are a hill tribe originating from China that we've already
seen in the mountains of Northern Vietnam.
Feb 4, 2011
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We are overwhelmed by the
abundance and variety of fruits, vegetables, berries, pickles,
candied and dried fruits, honey, strawberry wine and whatever.
Apparently northern
Thailand's climate is optimal for growing anything from root
vegetables to tropical fruits to berries, some of which are
familiar to us from our home country, such as strawberries and
gooseberries.
Feb 4, 2011
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It just makes us wonder why
in Singapore we only get strawberries from the US and Australia,
not the tasty one s locally grown in SE Asia.
Feb 4, 2011
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Carrots are humongous.
Feb 4, 2011
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Next to the Hmong market
there is an outdoor restaurant where we have lunch.
Feb 4, 2011
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After lunch the next stop is
the summit of Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand at
2565 meters.
There is not much scenery to
be seen since the summit is all wooded.
Feb 4, 2011
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The
next and final stop is at Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon and
Nophamethanidon, which are two chedis built to honor the king's
and queen's 60th
birthdays.
Feb 4, 2011
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The chedis are not fully
accessible, but the escalators provide some help to reach the top.
Feb 4, 2011
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Finally, we have a gorgeous
view over the mountains and the valleys.
Feb 4, 2011
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The sun is really bright
even if the air is somewhat hazy.
Feb 4, 2011
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A nice atmospheric
perspective.
Feb 4, 2011
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Little terracotta prayer.
Feb 4, 2011
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Sleeping ellie.
Feb 4, 2011
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For our last whole day in Northern Thailand we have booked a Hike
Bike trip to Doi Suthep, organized by Chiang Mai Mountain Biking. When
we arrive, the bike shop is busy shuffling people back and forth
between the office and the vehicles that take them up to the mountain.
Finally, we are in a truck on our way up, still quite not sure if we
are going to the right place ...
Feb 5, 2011
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After a long ride up we
hikers and bikers are asked to alight. There at the Doi Suthep
National Park Headquarters and Campground we start our three-hour
hike.
Feb 5, 2011
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Our company
consists of six people: a French couple living in Singapore, and
their father in law, a woman from Dubai, and us two, plus our
local guide.
Feb 5, 2011
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We start on a wide 4WD track
that is used by the park rangers ...
Feb 5, 2011
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... but later move to a narrow trail that follows the gradient. The
trail is rather dry and dusty, which sometimes makes it hard to keep
the grip. It also gets quite steep at some point. The Dubai woman has
difficulties balancing on the trail, and packs her heavy camera
in the backpack to free her hands. When she's about to move on, we
notice her water bottle lying on the ground, and notify her about it.
Feb 5, 2011
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She says that she's going to
leave it behind, since she can't possibly manage the trail holding
on to the bottle. This is the same person who just complained that
Phnom Penh is so filthy ...
Feb 5, 2011
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Anyway, Tomi carries the bottle out of the forest for her.
Eventually, the hike is too much for her, so the guide takes care of
getting her out of the jungle, and rest of us can just go on and on
and on.
Feb 5, 2011
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Every now and then we get a
glimpse of the valley and the town below.
Feb 5, 2011
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We are high enough to see
some pine trees.
Feb 5, 2011
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After a noodle soup lunch in
a hill tribe village we are ready to conquer the downhill on
bikes.
Feb 5, 2011
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Helmet – check, elbow
guards – check, knee and calf guards – check ...
Feb 5, 2011
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... and we are ready to go.
Feb 5, 2011
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The road is bumpy, rocky,
and uneven ...
Feb 5, 2011
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.. and also at some parts
covered by loose sand.
Feb 5, 2011
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We have some opportunities
to admire the scenery on our way ...
Feb 5, 2011
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... but only when we stop.
Feb 5, 2011
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Huay Tung Thao Lake is our
destination.
Feb 5, 2011
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Tomi on single track.
Feb 5, 2011
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Broken bones, pulled
muscles, road rash – check. Nothing.
Feb 5, 2011
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Huay Tung Thao Lake
Feb 5, 2011
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Huts on stilts by the lake.
Feb 5, 2011
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Waiting for a late lunch in
one of those stilt huts.
Feb 5, 2011
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Later that night we have
dinner at Huen Phen, a Thai restaurant nearby the guesthouse
specializing in Northern Thai dishes.
This little gem is hidden
behind a narrow alley from the street.
Feb 5, 2011
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This time we are early and
get in without waiting (we just gave up the night before)
Feb 5, 2011
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The restaurant is packed
with local decor.
Feb 5, 2011
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The chef himself stopped by
at our table.
Feb 5, 2011
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The entrance from inside.
Feb 5, 2011
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We have rice in a banana
leaf and some curries.
Feb 5, 2011
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Northern Thai curries are
broth, not coconut milk -based, and contain more vegetables than
meat.
Feb 5, 2011
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On our last morning we head
to the flower festival.
Feb 6, 2011
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Tomi buys some fried
maggots,
Feb 6, 2011
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... but leaves crickets and
other yummy critters behind.
Feb 6, 2011
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A flower float from
yesterday's parade.
Feb 6, 2011
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Another flower float from
yesterday's parade.
Feb 6, 2011
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Yet another float from
yesterday's parade, with the king's picture.
Feb 6, 2011
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Yet another float.
Feb 6, 2011
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The moat surrounding the old
town.
Feb 6, 2011
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The Southern edge of the old
town, Chiang Mai
Feb 6, 2011
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The city wall.
Feb 6, 2011
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The city wall.
Feb 6, 2011
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The Eastern edge of the old
town.
Feb 6, 2011
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A tiny coffee shop by the
moat.
Feb 6, 2011
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We cross the canal, and Ping
river to explore Chiang Mai beyond the old town.
Feb 6, 2011
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We criss-cross narrow alleys
all the way back to the guesthouse, and have lunch at one of the
organic health food cafes, name of which escapes us. It is a
veggie sandwich for Tei, fried rice for Tomi.
Feb 6, 2011
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This little
fellow waves us goodbye.
Feb 6, 2011
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